Regalia is a general term that includes all the items
of costume worn by those attending a feast: ceremonial blankets
(also known as robes), headdresses, masks, aprons, leggings and
rattles.
Amalayt
The most essential part
of the regalia is the ceremonial headdress or “amalayt”.
Representative figures from the chief’s main household, or
clan crests are carved on the frontlet of the headdress which often
also has abalone shell inlays; there are ermine furs on the back
train; and a cylinder made of sea lion whiskers which extends above
the crown filled with eagle down that can be released by a gentle
nod of the chief’s head.
Chilkat Robe
Chilkat robes are designed by men and woven by women. The weaver
is a professional who most likely inherits the privilege of weaving
from her mother or grandmother. As the warp is made of the inner
bark of yellow cedar wrapped with mountain goat wool, the manufacture
of a chilkat robe is a slow
process; a good weaver can complete a small face in about ten hours.
From the gathering and preparation of the materials to twining and
completion of the weaving takes about 18 months. These auspicious
garments are designed and produced as commissioned works of art
and are held in very high esteem. Only a man or woman who has completed
the requirements necessary to become a chief would be worthy of
wearing a chilkat robe as it is a symbol of power, which demands
respect. The chilkat robe is worn with traditional attire such as
skins, fur robes, cedar capes, aprons and leggings. It is worn only
on ceremonial occasions, and only ever, by chiefs.
Button Robes
After European contact, Hudson Bay
trade blankets of wool took the place of fur and hide. The term
“button blanket” is a poor translation of “gwiis
gan m’ala”, which literally means “covering or robe
with buttons”. These robes were used not only for warmth, but
also were symbols of wealth.
The plain robe is known to have existed historically, but local
informants are unsure of its usage. This blanket is the same as
the crest type but without the appliquéd design. Visually, the crest
type is the most spectacular and the one that comes to mind when
button robes are mentioned. Crests are markers for meaningful and
unusual events which occurred to specific maternal ancestors at
specific times and places.
Although only a small number of button robes are on display, the
museum has about twenty-five older ceremonial blankets in storage
as they are fragile due to age. Few of these robes are younger than
sixty-five, and some are over one hundred years old. All are navy
or black, shoulder-to-ankle wraps of blanket cloth. highlighted
by scarlet appliqué and enlivened by the rainbow lights from white
mother-of-pearl buttons.
Aprons and Leggings
Aprons and leggings of tanned hide, pieces of chilkat
or Hudson Bay blankets are another part of the traditional regalia
worn only by chiefs. They are frequently decorated with embroidered
geometric patterns. The long fringes of the aprons are adorned with
tinklers made from metal thimbles, bells, coins, puffin beaks or
deer hooves. Because of their rarity, puffin beaks are a sign of
great wealth, while hooves of deer are decorations that symbolize
great power.
Rattles
Another important part of a chief’s
regalia, the rattle, was essential to ancient rituals. Rattles are
used by both chiefs and shamans. The bird rattle is the prerogative
of the chief, who uses it while singing. The chief is contacting
and informing the spirit world with his songs.
These most beautiful and elaborate rattles are carved out of solid
blocks of cedar. The sculpted wood is split carefully and the two
halves are hollowed out. Small holes are made along the joining
edges and wooden pegs or a thin strip of hide is used to tie the
two halves of the wood together.
The raven rattle is carved in the shape of the mythical being who
transformed the world and brought daylight to human beings. There
is often a ball in the raven’s beak which represents the ball
of light - raven’s gift. It is believed that the figures carved
on the raven’s back and belly symbolize supernatural power
and the transfer of this power to the people. Along the northern
coast, chiefs use raven rattles during ceremonies. The rattle is
always held upside down. Because of the power of the chief in his
regalia and the power of the rattle, it is believed that if held
upright the bird would fly away.
The most essential part
of the regalia is the ceremonial headdress or “amalayt”.
Representative figures from the chief’s main household, or
clan crests are carved on the frontlet of the headdress which often
also has abalone shell inlays; there are ermine furs on the back
train; and a cylinder made of sea lion whiskers which extends above
the crown filled with eagle down that can be released by a gentle
nod of the chief’s head. 
chilkat robe is a slow
process; a good weaver can complete a small face in about ten hours.
From the gathering and preparation of the materials to twining and
completion of the weaving takes about 18 months. These auspicious
garments are designed and produced as commissioned works of art
and are held in very high esteem. Only a man or woman who has completed
the requirements necessary to become a chief would be worthy of
wearing a chilkat robe as it is a symbol of power, which demands
respect. The chilkat robe is worn with traditional attire such as
skins, fur robes, cedar capes, aprons and leggings. It is worn only
on ceremonial occasions, and only ever, by chiefs.
After European contact, Hudson Bay
trade blankets of wool took the place of fur and hide. The term
“button blanket” is a poor translation of “gwiis
gan m’ala”, which literally means “covering or robe
with buttons”. These robes were used not only for warmth, but
also were symbols of wealth.
Aprons and leggings of tanned hide, pieces of chilkat
or Hudson Bay blankets are another part of the traditional regalia
worn only by chiefs. They are frequently decorated with embroidered
geometric patterns. The long fringes of the aprons are adorned with
tinklers made from metal thimbles, bells, coins, puffin beaks or
deer hooves. Because of their rarity, puffin beaks are a sign of
great wealth, while hooves of deer are decorations that symbolize
great power.
Another important part of a chief’s
regalia, the rattle, was essential to ancient rituals. Rattles are
used by both chiefs and shamans. The bird rattle is the prerogative
of the chief, who uses it while singing. The chief is contacting
and informing the spirit world with his songs.